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Guidebook for Lisboa

Hugo

Guidebook for Lisboa

Shopping
When Ó! Galeria moved from Porto to Lisbon in 2015, the idea was to set up a pop-up store. But the temporary residence turned permanent. Last year, this art store and gallery moved to a larger space, still in Mouraria. Mariana, a Miserável, Tamara Alves and Wasted Rita are some of the names represented there. Between illustrations, designs, books, magazines and signature pieces, you’ll find a bit of everything – and for every budget.
Ó!Galeria
86 Calçada de Santo André
When Ó! Galeria moved from Porto to Lisbon in 2015, the idea was to set up a pop-up store. But the temporary residence turned permanent. Last year, this art store and gallery moved to a larger space, still in Mouraria. Mariana, a Miserável, Tamara Alves and Wasted Rita are some of the names represented there. Between illustrations, designs, books, magazines and signature pieces, you’ll find a bit of everything – and for every budget.
For over 30 years, Joaquim José Cortiço dedicated his life to collecting and studying industrial Portuguese tiles, which belonged to factories that went out of business. Today, it’s his grandchildren that continue to give life to his project with Cortiço & Netos, where you can find several ceramic tiles that tell its history from the 60’s onwards.
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Cortiço & Netos
66 Calçada de Santo André
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For over 30 years, Joaquim José Cortiço dedicated his life to collecting and studying industrial Portuguese tiles, which belonged to factories that went out of business. Today, it’s his grandchildren that continue to give life to his project with Cortiço & Netos, where you can find several ceramic tiles that tell its history from the 60’s onwards.
The Animatógrafo do Rossio opened in 1907 and was one of the country’s first cinemas - and one of the fanciest ones. In 1994, it was turned into a peep show venue, with erotic shows, private booths, pornographic movies and a sex shop, Sexyland. If you don’t want to go in, the façade alone is worth a visit, with its Art Nouveau-style sculpted wood and two panels of azulejos.
Animatógrafo do Rossio
1 Rua da Betesga
The Animatógrafo do Rossio opened in 1907 and was one of the country’s first cinemas - and one of the fanciest ones. In 1994, it was turned into a peep show venue, with erotic shows, private booths, pornographic movies and a sex shop, Sexyland. If you don’t want to go in, the façade alone is worth a visit, with its Art Nouveau-style sculpted wood and two panels of azulejos.
Drinks & Nightlife
Hotel Mundial’s rooftop bar is a classic in the city, famous for its sunset parties, between April and October. From the last floor of this hotel on Martim Moniz, you can see the castle and the city’s historical centre. The self-designated “rooftop bar & lounge” has sangria, beer jugs, sparkling wine and cocktails. Try the signature Rooftop Overview (Bulldog gin, Blue Corazón, Drambuie, lemon juice, tonic water and egg white).
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Hotel Mundial
2 Praça Martim Moniz
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Hotel Mundial’s rooftop bar is a classic in the city, famous for its sunset parties, between April and October. From the last floor of this hotel on Martim Moniz, you can see the castle and the city’s historical centre. The self-designated “rooftop bar & lounge” has sangria, beer jugs, sparkling wine and cocktails. Try the signature Rooftop Overview (Bulldog gin, Blue Corazón, Drambuie, lemon juice, tonic water and egg white).
Toast to happiness with one of the many sparkling sangrias: prince herb and passion fruit or blueberry jam, basil and strawberry puré. Espumantaria do Petisco was carefully thought out, from the menu (which also serves great snacks such as fava bean salad or young bull tartare) to the modern, elegant and comfortable decoration.
Espumantaria do Petisco
Toast to happiness with one of the many sparkling sangrias: prince herb and passion fruit or blueberry jam, basil and strawberry puré. Espumantaria do Petisco was carefully thought out, from the menu (which also serves great snacks such as fava bean salad or young bull tartare) to the modern, elegant and comfortable decoration.
The aim here is for you to forget a little of everything – the city, the trip, yourself
– and enter the new experimental world of Garagem’s plays, at Teatro Taborda (Taborda Theatre). Afterwards, sit at one of the tables of the popular Café da Garagem (Garagem’s café) and you will have an amazing view over Lisbon: you can have some appetizers or order a salad or a toast.
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Teatro Taborda
75 Costa do Castelo
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The aim here is for you to forget a little of everything – the city, the trip, yourself
– and enter the new experimental world of Garagem’s plays, at Teatro Taborda (Taborda Theatre). Afterwards, sit at one of the tables of the popular Café da Garagem (Garagem’s café) and you will have an amazing view over Lisbon: you can have some appetizers or order a salad or a toast.
There are trapeze artists, clowns and a lot of colour at Chapitô. But this quintessential home (and school) of arts in Lisbon is not closed and it invites everyone in: inside you’ll find a restaurant and an outdoor café with an incredible view and a fun programme with parties and concerts.
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Chapitô
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There are trapeze artists, clowns and a lot of colour at Chapitô. But this quintessential home (and school) of arts in Lisbon is not closed and it invites everyone in: inside you’ll find a restaurant and an outdoor café with an incredible view and a fun programme with parties and concerts.
There’s nothing like drinking a beer out of a horn as if this were the Middle Ages. Trobadores, the dark Baixa bar with long communal tables, is inspired by medieval times and attracts large groups of friends to this halfway point on the climb up to Bairro Alto or down to Cais do Sodré. The beers can also be served in clay cups, for those who don’t like horns. We recommend the hidromel.
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Trobadores - Taberna Medieval
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There’s nothing like drinking a beer out of a horn as if this were the Middle Ages. Trobadores, the dark Baixa bar with long communal tables, is inspired by medieval times and attracts large groups of friends to this halfway point on the climb up to Bairro Alto or down to Cais do Sodré. The beers can also be served in clay cups, for those who don’t like horns. We recommend the hidromel.
“With or without?” the employee behind the counter is going to ask you as you enter Ginjinha Espinheira, inaugurated in 1840 by a Galician of that name. What he is asking is whether you will take your ginjinha with or without ginjas (the little cherries used to make this liqueur). The other ingredients are aguardente, water, sugar and cinnamon, and they say the recipe was created by a monk.
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A Ginjinha
8 Largo São Domingos
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“With or without?” the employee behind the counter is going to ask you as you enter Ginjinha Espinheira, inaugurated in 1840 by a Galician of that name. What he is asking is whether you will take your ginjinha with or without ginjas (the little cherries used to make this liqueur). The other ingredients are aguardente, water, sugar and cinnamon, and they say the recipe was created by a monk.
Across from Espinheira, Ginjinha Sem Rival, opened the same year, is another good option. The best thing to do is to try both and decide which one’s the best.
Ginjinha Sem Rival
7 R. Portas de Santo Antão
Across from Espinheira, Ginjinha Sem Rival, opened the same year, is another good option. The best thing to do is to try both and decide which one’s the best.
The George, a pub famous for its eggs benedict (which won the dubious prize of best tapas in Lisbon), may not be the best venue for dinner, but it’s great for after work drinks, especially when there’s a football match on. During the Champions League, between the tournament and the pub’s popularity with tourists staying in Baixa, it’s difficult to get a spot, so book a table.
The George
58 R. do Crucifixo
The George, a pub famous for its eggs benedict (which won the dubious prize of best tapas in Lisbon), may not be the best venue for dinner, but it’s great for after work drinks, especially when there’s a football match on. During the Champions League, between the tournament and the pub’s popularity with tourists staying in Baixa, it’s difficult to get a spot, so book a table.
The Portas do Sol cocktail bar invites everyone to have a boogie on weekends, and it also serves food, to balance out all that sangria. The bar of this lookout is integrated into a building of the award-winning pair of architects Aires Mateus and is animated at weekends by a DJ who puts Lisbon and tourists dancing around the statue of São Vicente de Fora, patron saint of Lisbon.
Largo Portas do Sol
The Portas do Sol cocktail bar invites everyone to have a boogie on weekends, and it also serves food, to balance out all that sangria. The bar of this lookout is integrated into a building of the award-winning pair of architects Aires Mateus and is animated at weekends by a DJ who puts Lisbon and tourists dancing around the statue of São Vicente de Fora, patron saint of Lisbon.
Food Scene
Photographer Adriana Freire dreamed of having a kitchen full of people, like a family home where everyone gathers around the table and there’s always someone cooking something. That’s how Cozinha Popular da Mouraria was born without table service: everyone picks up their plate before sitting down wherever they want. They organise communal lunches, cooking workshops from around the world, and they sometimes invite neighbours to cook their own specialities. One of the most multicultural venues in Lisbon.
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Cozinha popular da mouraria
5 R. das Olarias
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Photographer Adriana Freire dreamed of having a kitchen full of people, like a family home where everyone gathers around the table and there’s always someone cooking something. That’s how Cozinha Popular da Mouraria was born without table service: everyone picks up their plate before sitting down wherever they want. They organise communal lunches, cooking workshops from around the world, and they sometimes invite neighbours to cook their own specialities. One of the most multicultural venues in Lisbon.
Zé da Mouraria is the ideal restaurant for those who like to eat a lot, spend little and take the afternoon to digest at the table while finishing a bottle of wine. No picture can do justice to the size of the grilled codfish platter, but it’s a must. I also recommend the cuttlefish or the spare ribs with rice and beans. There’s already a second Zé da Mouraria in Campo dos Mártires da Pátria – so if you can’t get a table here, you can always try the other one.
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Zé da Mouraria
24 R. João do Outeiro
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Zé da Mouraria is the ideal restaurant for those who like to eat a lot, spend little and take the afternoon to digest at the table while finishing a bottle of wine. No picture can do justice to the size of the grilled codfish platter, but it’s a must. I also recommend the cuttlefish or the spare ribs with rice and beans. There’s already a second Zé da Mouraria in Campo dos Mártires da Pátria – so if you can’t get a table here, you can always try the other one.
It’s at one of the highest parts of the city, with a view to the Tejo river and to Lisbon’s downtown, that Portugal and Mozambique meet for a meal that’s filled with delicacies such as codfish bread panada, duck chacuti or crab curry. At Zambeze restaurant, Mozambican beer Laurentina completes this delightful gastronomic date.
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Zambeze - Gastronomia Portuguesa e Moçambicana
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It’s at one of the highest parts of the city, with a view to the Tejo river and to Lisbon’s downtown, that Portugal and Mozambique meet for a meal that’s filled with delicacies such as codfish bread panada, duck chacuti or crab curry. At Zambeze restaurant, Mozambican beer Laurentina completes this delightful gastronomic date.
It was once a water reservoir from the 12th century and a huge bakery that even had 19th-century dormitories. Nowadays, in broad 21st century, it opens as a homemade food corner that also holds exhibitions and meetings. At Graça 77 there are vegetarian burgers, peixinhos da horta (crunchy green beans), vegan pancakes and a brunch (served on Sundays).
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Graça 77
77 Largo Graça
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It was once a water reservoir from the 12th century and a huge bakery that even had 19th-century dormitories. Nowadays, in broad 21st century, it opens as a homemade food corner that also holds exhibitions and meetings. At Graça 77 there are vegetarian burgers, peixinhos da horta (crunchy green beans), vegan pancakes and a brunch (served on Sundays).
In the middle of so many restaurants that are just there to rip off tourists – avoid the ones with pictures of the food on the menu – Tasca Kome is one of Baixa’s best joints and a favourite for locals. The Japanese restaurant of Yuko Yamamoto, who moved to Portugal over a decade ago, goes far beyond sushi to explore traditional Japanese dishes made with the same ingredients as they always were. The lunch menu prices are particularly appealing.
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Tasca Kome
57 R. da Madalena
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In the middle of so many restaurants that are just there to rip off tourists – avoid the ones with pictures of the food on the menu – Tasca Kome is one of Baixa’s best joints and a favourite for locals. The Japanese restaurant of Yuko Yamamoto, who moved to Portugal over a decade ago, goes far beyond sushi to explore traditional Japanese dishes made with the same ingredients as they always were. The lunch menu prices are particularly appealing.
This is the bakery that brought bolo-rei (a crowned-shaped cake decorated with dried fruit that is usually eaten around Christmas) to Portugal and it still uses the same recipe as in 1829, the year it opened. Six generations later, Confeitaria Nacional is still run by the same family, though there have been some modernisations. In the summer months, it usually organises meals and cruises on a boat/restaurant with a view on the Tagus River.
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Confeitaria Nacional
18B Praça da Figueira
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This is the bakery that brought bolo-rei (a crowned-shaped cake decorated with dried fruit that is usually eaten around Christmas) to Portugal and it still uses the same recipe as in 1829, the year it opened. Six generations later, Confeitaria Nacional is still run by the same family, though there have been some modernisations. In the summer months, it usually organises meals and cruises on a boat/restaurant with a view on the Tagus River.
Marcello di Salvatore’s Italian restaurant is known for having the best tiramisu in the city. This canteen, with the TV, always turned on to channel Rai Uno, serves pasta made the authentic Italian way. Besides the “wonderful” tiramisu the Nutella mousse also has a great reputation.
Bella Ciao
21 R. do Crucifixo
Marcello di Salvatore’s Italian restaurant is known for having the best tiramisu in the city. This canteen, with the TV, always turned on to channel Rai Uno, serves pasta made the authentic Italian way. Besides the “wonderful” tiramisu the Nutella mousse also has a great reputation.
Conduct manual for eating at Gambrinus bar: 1) Always eat a croquette with the house mustard; 2) ask for the Gambrinus tulip, a very good mixed beer; 3) Do not skip on the toasted almonds; 4) wait patiently for the toast of rye bread; 5) Try a prego (beef sandwich) or a roast beef sandwich with tartar; 6) watch the preparation of the balloon coffee - and drink it, of course. Perfect for: having lunch alone. With so many employees, you're never really alone.
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Gambrinus
23 R. das Portas de Santo Antão
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Conduct manual for eating at Gambrinus bar: 1) Always eat a croquette with the house mustard; 2) ask for the Gambrinus tulip, a very good mixed beer; 3) Do not skip on the toasted almonds; 4) wait patiently for the toast of rye bread; 5) Try a prego (beef sandwich) or a roast beef sandwich with tartar; 6) watch the preparation of the balloon coffee - and drink it, of course. Perfect for: having lunch alone. With so many employees, you're never really alone.
There isn’t a weekend during
 which Nicolau Lisboa gets 
ignored on Instagram. Some
 post what arrives on the 
table; others, the decor which 
resembles a London cafeteria 
with some Lx Factory touches. 
And the menu has a bit of
 everything trendy, such as
pancakes (the stars of the
 house), tapiocas, eggs benedict,
smoothies or yoghurt with
 granola. Go ahead and post that
#nomnomnom hashtag.
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Nicolau Lisboa
17 R. São Nicolau
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There isn’t a weekend during
 which Nicolau Lisboa gets 
ignored on Instagram. Some
 post what arrives on the 
table; others, the decor which 
resembles a London cafeteria 
with some Lx Factory touches. 
And the menu has a bit of
 everything trendy, such as
pancakes (the stars of the
 house), tapiocas, eggs benedict,
smoothies or yoghurt with
 granola. Go ahead and post that
#nomnomnom hashtag.
Arts & Culture
From floor to ceiling, everything is a piece of art at Palácio Azurara. That’s where the Museum of Portuguese Decorative Arts is (part of the Ricardo Espírito Santo Foundation), which features incredible tiles, but also furniture, carpets and drawings telling the detailed story of beauty, from the 15th to the 19th century.
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Fundação Ricardo do Espírito Santo Silva
2 Largo Portas do Sol
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From floor to ceiling, everything is a piece of art at Palácio Azurara. That’s where the Museum of Portuguese Decorative Arts is (part of the Ricardo Espírito Santo Foundation), which features incredible tiles, but also furniture, carpets and drawings telling the detailed story of beauty, from the 15th to the 19th century.
Sightseeing
Miradouro de Santa Luzia has a privileged view over Alfama, and an even better one over the Tagus river, where you can see the cruise ships docking at the city’s new terminal. The azulejo murals are resisting the passage of time – and of thieves. One of them represents Terreiro do Paço before the 1755 earthquake. Another, the Christian attack on São Jorge Castle, very close to the lookout. It’s open 24 hours a day, so try to avoid the hottest – and most crowded times.
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Miradouro de Santa Luzia
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Miradouro de Santa Luzia has a privileged view over Alfama, and an even better one over the Tagus river, where you can see the cruise ships docking at the city’s new terminal. The azulejo murals are resisting the passage of time – and of thieves. One of them represents Terreiro do Paço before the 1755 earthquake. Another, the Christian attack on São Jorge Castle, very close to the lookout. It’s open 24 hours a day, so try to avoid the hottest – and most crowded times.
You won’t want to follow the heard of foreigners with Panama hats and selfie sticks but there are sacrifices worth making. São Jorge castle, a fortress that goes all the way back to the 11th century, is one of them due to the history, the magnificence, the views and the outdoor café that always makes you crave a cool drink.
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Castelo de S. Jorge
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You won’t want to follow the heard of foreigners with Panama hats and selfie sticks but there are sacrifices worth making. São Jorge castle, a fortress that goes all the way back to the 11th century, is one of them due to the history, the magnificence, the views and the outdoor café that always makes you crave a cool drink.
Its real name is Rua Áurea, but everyone knows it as Rua do Ouro (Gold Street). It used to be the home of most of Lisbon’s goldsmiths, as well as the central bank (Banco de Portugal). In the 15th century, it became the cleanest place in the city, when the government implemented a decree prohibiting littering on this specific street. The historic gold shop Ourivesaria Sarmento is worth a visit. It was founded in 1870 and has been in the same family for six generations, with an infinite number of stories, and objects and services that are hard to find in this day and age. There’s always an appraiser in the shop, which boasts an impressive collection of cutlery.
Rua Áurea
Its real name is Rua Áurea, but everyone knows it as Rua do Ouro (Gold Street). It used to be the home of most of Lisbon’s goldsmiths, as well as the central bank (Banco de Portugal). In the 15th century, it became the cleanest place in the city, when the government implemented a decree prohibiting littering on this specific street. The historic gold shop Ourivesaria Sarmento is worth a visit. It was founded in 1870 and has been in the same family for six generations, with an infinite number of stories, and objects and services that are hard to find in this day and age. There’s always an appraiser in the shop, which boasts an impressive collection of cutlery.
Parks & Nature
If it’s true that Lisbon has several restaurants and outdoor cafés that are worthy of a break, it’s also true that it has several other green places, which are perfect for a different and relaxing meal with incredible scenery. At Jardim da Cerca, in Graça, there’s a view to Castelo, Chiado and the Tejo river – it’s 1, 7 hectares with a central lawn, three viewpoints, an outdoor café, a children’s park and an orchard.
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Jardim da Cerca da Graça
46 Calçada Do Monte
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If it’s true that Lisbon has several restaurants and outdoor cafés that are worthy of a break, it’s also true that it has several other green places, which are perfect for a different and relaxing meal with incredible scenery. At Jardim da Cerca, in Graça, there’s a view to Castelo, Chiado and the Tejo river – it’s 1, 7 hectares with a central lawn, three viewpoints, an outdoor café, a children’s park and an orchard.